Struggling to make the trench work for you? Read this.

Spring time in the UK largely means being ready for anything, weather-wise. Rain, hail, snow, sunshine – the full gamut of weather is possible. In turn, practical outerwear is an essential. Step up, the trench: durable and waterproof, in neutral shades of beige, tan, navy or khaki, no wardrobe should be without one, right? Wrong. The trench is one of the single most tricky pieces of clothing to wear. Here’s why.

Traditionally, they’re double-breasted, meaning that unless they’re done up (which I would never recommend), swathes of fabric flap about like an ostrich trying to take off. If you’re approximately seven feet tall, posing on Instagram, with a hand in a trouser pocket and the sleeves pushed up to streamline the silhouette, this can look great, but if you’re running for the bus or dashing after a toddler, you’re in trouble.

Epaulettes, back yokes and gun flaps (the piece of fabric that stretches from the shoulder down to the bust) add width to your shoulders and can tip your proportions off balance: making a full bust even fuller and broad shoulders even broader. If you’re narrow across the shoulder and a little fuller through the bottom (NB a little), providing the coat is belted tightly, this can be very flattering. For the rest of us, less so.

If you’re more than a little fuller through the bottom, a trench coat in a stiff durable fabric will build your bottom out further, again throwing your proportions off.

Who can wear the trench? As mentioned, someone with narrower shoulders and a fractionally larger bottom will benefit from a trench coat cinched tightly at the waist, as will athletic figures who want to add some fluidity with a trench in a soft, fluid fabric left open. (Styling tip: tying the belt loosely at the back will keep the lapels from flapping about too much). They can also work if you’re petite all over, and you opt for a neatly fitted style. For the rest of us, unfortunately, they’re best swerved.

So, what should we be looking for from a Spring coat?

The best non-trench, trench

£325, Reiss, reiss.com

OK, so this isn’t waterproof - it’s a wool coat - but, crucially, it’s free of complicated, fussy details that add bulk. There is a belt, which, in this image, is loosely tied at the back giving it a streamlined elegance - great on hourglass and curvy bodies. Come winter, wrap yourself up and tie the belt tightly at the front. It’s a wardrobe classic.

Screenshot 2021-03-22 at 17.19.54.png — The ultimate trench

£375, Mackintosh, mackintosh.com

Breathable, windproof and waterproof, a Mackintosh coat in a classic style is always a good investment. Mackintosh have been creating coats for over 200 years and are synonymous with reliable outerwear. This particular style is currently 50% off and I couldn’t tell you why. The classic shape, again, free from fussy details, will work over almost anything - a light dress, a trouser suit or jeans and a t-shirt - and is best on rounder body shapes as it skims over lumps and bumps. It’s the sort of coat you will wonder what you ever did without it.

The parka

£149, Massimo Dutti, massimodutti.com

Parkas are often seen as casual, but blurring the line between casual and formal is one of the easiest ways to give your wardrobe a modern update. Yes, you could wear this with jeans and wellies, but with a pair of cigarette pants and a fine gauge jumper (I love Uniqlo’s Extra Fine 100% Merino Wool jumpers that are just £24.90 and machine washable), this parka with a nipped in waist will feel polished and presentable. I would remove the purse on the belt though which adds unnecessary bulk.

Best for athletic figures

£89.99, Mango, mango.com

If you are fairly straight up and down you can opt for one of the plethora of oversized trench coats available on the High Street. Look for one in a flowy fabric rather than anything too stiff. If you’re tall enough (with a cool undertone to your skin), this water repellent style from Mango is ideal. Left open, it has a waterfall effect which adds softness and fluidity to a squarer body shape. Ignore the leggings and trainers that it’s styled with here and wear it over a printed midi dress with boots (or sandals when it really warms up) or over some wide leg jeans.

Screenshot 2021-03-23 at 08.11.12.png — The classic trench

£255, J. Crew, jcrew.com

And finally, if you are still keen on a classic trench coat, opt for something neat with minimal details. This style from J Crew doesn’t have a gun flap, nor a back yoke, and the pockets are neat slits rather than flapped styles, so it doesn’t get as bulky as quickly as a traditional trench coat. Consider moving the belt hoops if they don’t hit at your waist - it’s the quickest way to give any item a bespoke finish. Even this style will be better on more petite frames though. Keep the underneath layers neat too, to avoid lumps and bumps.

And let’s just hope that the sun comes out and stays out for our Summer of garden activities.

Don’t forget to check out my updated Lust List while you’re here. I’ll be updating this every Sunday with my edit of all the jolly pieces that are New In that week. If you’re after a particular edit, or looking for something specific, let me know and I’ll endeavour to do the legwork for you!

ADMIN: Everything I’ve included here, I’ve included solely because I really rate it. I may though, if you buy some of the items mentioned, earn a small commission from that purchase.

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